by Nick Gromicko and Kate Tarasenko

“Aging in place” is the phenomenon describing senior citizens’ ability to live independently in their homes for as long as possible. Those who age in place will not have to move from their present residence in order to secure necessary support services in response to their changing needs.

The Baby Boomers

As the baby boomers age, the 60+ population will spike from roughly 45 million in recent years to more than 70 million by 2020. Research shows that baby boomers’ expectations of how they will receive care differ from that of their parents’ generation. Overwhelmingly, they will seek care in their own homes and will be less likely to move into congregate living settings.

Why do many senior citizens prefer to age in place?

Nursing homes, too many, represent a loss of freedom and reduced quality of life. Here are a few good reasons why these fears are justified:

• In 2007, inspectors received 37,150 complaints about conditions in nursing homes. Roughly one-fifth of the complaints verified by federal and state authorities involved the abuse or neglect of patients. Specific problems included infected bedsores, medication mix-ups, poor nutrition, and other forms of neglect.
• The proportion of nursing homes cited for deficiencies ranged from 76% in Rhode Island to as high as 100% in Alaska, Idaho, Wyoming and Washington, D.C.
• Many cases have been exposed in which nursing homes billed Medicare and Medicaid for services that were not provided.
• A significant percentage of nursing homes had deficiencies that caused immediate jeopardy or actual harm to patients.

Ageing-in-place Inspections

Inspectors may recommend corrections and adaptations to the home to improve maneuverability, accessibility, and safety for elderly occupants. Some such alterations and recommendations for a home are as follows:

Appliances:

• microwave oven in the wall or on the counter;
• refrigerator and freezer side by side;
• side-swing or wall oven;
• controls that  are easy to read;
• raised washing machine and dryer;
• front-loading washing machines;
• raised dishwasher with push-button controls;
• stoves having electric cooktops with level burners for safely transferring between the burners; front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from user; light to indicate when the surface is hot; and
• replace old stoves with induction cooktops to help prevent burns.

Bathroom:

• fold-down seat installed in the shower;
• adjustable showerheads with 6-foot hose;
• light in shower stall;
• wall support, and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets;
• contrasting colour edge border at countertops;
• at least one wheelchair-maneuverable bath on the main level;
• bracing in walls around the tub, shower, shower seat and toilet for installation of grab bars;
• if the stand-up shower is used in the main bath, it is curbless and wide;
• low bathtub;
• toilet higher than a standard toilet, or height-adjustable;
• design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand;
• wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect the user from pipes; and
• slip-resistant flooring in the bathroom and shower.

Counters:

• base cabinet with roll-out trays;
• pull-down shelving;
• wall support, and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets;
• upper wall cabinetry lower than conventional height;
• accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace;
• counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances;
• glass-front cabinet doors; and
• open shelving for easy access to frequently used items.

Exterior:

• low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick, etc); and
• low-maintenance shrubs and plants.

Entry:

• sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock;
• non-slip flooring in the foyer;
• accessible path of travel to the home;
• at least one no-step entry with a cover;
• entry door sidelight or high/low peephole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety;
• doorbell in an accessible location; and
• a surface on which to place packages while opening the door.

Electrical, Lighting, Safety and Security:

• install new smoke and CO detectors;
• install automated lighting, an emergency alert system, or a video-monitoring system;
• easy-to-see and read thermostats;
• light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms;
• light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom);
• light switches, thermostats and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from the floor;
• move electrical cords out of the flow of traffic;
• replace standard light switches with a rocker or touch-light switches; and
• pre-programmed thermostats.

Faucets:

• thermostatic or anti-scald controls;
• lever handles or pedal-controlled; and
• pressure-balanced faucets.

Flooring:

• if carpeted, use low-density with firm pad;
• smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior; and
• colour and texture contrast to indicate a change in surface levels.

Hallways:

• wide;
• well-lit; and
• fasten down rugs and floor runners, and remove any that are not necessary.

Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning:

• install energy-efficient units;
• HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible; and
• windows that can be opened for cross-ventilation and fresh air.

Miscellaneous:

• 30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances, or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns;
• multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights;
• loop handles for easy grip and pull;
• pull-out spray faucet;
• levered handles;
• in multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in the master bedroom;
• open under-counter seated work areas; and
• placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas.

Overall Floor Plan:

• main living on a single story, including full bath;
• 5-foot by 5-foot clear turn space in the living area, kitchen, a bedroom and a bathroom; and
• no steps between rooms on a single level.

Reduced Maintenance and Convenience Features:

• easy-to-clean surfaces;
• built-in recycling system;
• video phones;
• central vacuum;
• built-in pet feeding system; and
• intercom system.

Stairways, Lifts and Elevators:

• adequate handrails on both sides of the stairway;
• residential elevator or lift; and
• increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, and colour contrast between treads and risers on stairs with the use of lighting.

Storage:

• lighting in closets;
• adjustable closet rods and shelves; and
• easy-open doors that do not obstruct access.

Windows:

• plenty of windows for natural light;
• low-maintenance exterior and interior finishes;
• lowered windows, or taller windows with lower sill height; and
• easy-to-operate hardware.

Advice for those who wish to age in place:

• Talk with family members about your long-term living preferences. Do you want to downsize to a smaller single-family home, or do you plan to stay put in your traditional family home?
• Take a look at your finances and retirement funds. With your current savings and assets, will you be able to pay for home maintenance? Consider starting a separate retirement savings account strictly for home maintenance.
• Remodel your home before your mobility becomes limited. As you age, changes in mobility, hearing, vision and overall health and flexibility will affect how easily you function in your home. Consider making your home “age-friendly” as a phased-in and budgeted home improvement, rather than waiting until you need many modifications at a time due to a health crisis.
• If you decide before you retire that you want to live in your current home through the remainder of life, consider paying for “big ticket – long life” home projects while you still have a healthy income. Such items may include having the roof assessed or replaced, replacing and upgrading the water heater or cooling unit, completing termite inspections and treatment, having a septic tank inspection and replacement, as needed, and purchasing a riding lawnmower.
• InterNACHI advocates healthy living, as it plays a vital role in your ability to age in place. Most seniors leave their homes due to functional and mobility limitations that result from medical crises, and an inability to pay for support to stay with them in their home. Effectively managing health risks and maintaining a healthy lifestyle can help you stay strong, age well, and live long at your own home.

In summary, ageing in place is a way by which senior citizens can avoid being dependent on others due to declining health and mobility.

This article downloadable in both languages.

• English
• French

For more information about Aging in place go to Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation

What is Carbon Monoxide?

Carbon monoxide is an invisible, odourless, colourless gas created when fuels (such as gasoline, wood, coal, natural gas, propane, oil, and methane) burn incompletely and is often called the silent killer. In the home sources of carbon monoxide are:

• Heating and cooking equipment that burn fuel.
• Vehicles or generators running in an attached garage.
• Fireplaces either gas or wood.

As of October 14th, 2014, it is mandatory that ALMOST ALL residential properties have a carbon monoxide (CO) detector as well as a smoke detector installed in Ontario. Any residential property with an attached garage, gas-fired appliance or fireplace must have both detectors installed. Most of the newer homes that I inspect have at least one carbon monoxide detector, but a lot of older homes do not. That is because previously the regulation was that all residences had to have smoke detectors installed (on each floor) but only residential properties built after August 6th, 2001 had to have a CO detector installed. These changes are an attempt to curtail the unnecessary deaths which occur every year from carbon monoxide.

The Ontario government has given homeowners in the province until April 15th, 2015 if your building has less than 6 units and until October 15th, 2015 if your building has more than 6. This means that most townhomes, semi-detached or detached homes will need to comply this spring.

What do you need to do to Comply?

In addition to the smoke detectors, which should already be installed on each floor and outside sleeping areas, you must now have a carbon monoxide detector next to all sleeping areas in the residential home if it has:

• a gas or oil-burning appliance (such as a furnace or hot water tank)
• a fireplace
• a garage or attached shed ( somewhere you could store a fuel-burning vehicle or tool)

In addition, any sleeping area (room) which shares a common floor or wall with a room with any of the above potential sources of CO must have an additional detector installed in that area. An example would be that if a home had a bedroom partially above a garage, that home to comply would need TWO carbon monoxide detectors, one outside the main sleeping area and one in that bedroom.

Things to Remember:

Safety First

For some, this might come as a surprise or feel like an obligation. But in the end, hopefully, these new regulations will save lives, maybe even yours…

For more specific information about your specific situation or if you are in a multi-residential unit please see Ontario Regulation 194/14 for details or call your local Fire Department.

• If you are going out to purchase a CO alarm, ensure that it has a recognized testing laboratory label.
• Always follow the manufacturer’s installation guidelines.
• Both carbon monoxide and smoke detectors and alarms should be tested monthly.
• Keep the alarms clear of dust and other dirt which could affect performance and replaced units according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• There are three types of carbon monoxide detectors: wired, battery and plugin (usually with battery backup). All three are acceptable as long as they are located and installed properly.
• You can buy combination smoke/CO detectors that would comply.

The warmer weather is finally upon us after a marathon winter. This past winter had many ups and downs in more ways than one. The temperature swings, usually right after fresh snow caused excessive ice build-up around the exterior of our homes, for building materials to expand and contract more often and for caulking and other sealants to crack or separate. It is time for Spring Maintenance and ensures that the outside of our homes is in good order and that we are as prepared as possible for the heat of summer and next winter.

Inspect

Take a couple of minutes and inspect the outside of your home for any damage that may have occurred, especially in places that may not always be easy to see, such as behind gardens or shrubs. Take a step back, maybe across the road or the end of the driveway and try to see the “whole picture”. Try this from all sides of the home to the best of your ability. Then from the ground (if you have them maybe with binoculars) inspect the roof, the condition of the shingles, the vents and any obvious debris or damage.

Then slowly move your way down each side of the building like you were reading a page, top to bottom and left to right. Take a look at things like windows, caulking, the condition of the building’s exterior veneer ( siding, brick, stucco or wood) and see if anything sticks out. In my case, I found some stucco which had some damage and that a woodpecker apparently liked my cedar siding out back…..When you get to the foundation level take a look at the parging, especially around sources of water and salt. Also, take a look at the ground around the foundation for any sinking or shifting of any items (deck or AC Units) next to or attached to the structure.

Anything that seems out of the ordinary probably is. By inspecting now you have the best visibility and most time to do repairs during the warmer months, either yourself if you’re handy or by hiring a contractor to further evaluate and/or repair.

Service/Test

Turn on the outside taps (or hose bib) with caution. Sometimes the interior portion of the supply plumbing line close to the tap can crack if it was improperly shut off in the fall. I highly recommend a quick trip to the basement as you turn each one on to verify to the best of your ability that there aren’t any leaks.

Uncover and clean your AC unit and schedule maintenance before you use it every season. This will prolong the life expectancy of the unit and in the long run save you money. Better to find out there is an issue now than when it is 35 degrees Celsius.

Along the same lines, why not ensure that your furnace is in good order as well. By scheduling the maintenance of both furnace and AC at the same time, usually with the same company, in the spring between “seasons”, you might just get a discount. Be sure to change the filter, ready for the air conditioning season.

Clean

If you are physically able and have the required equipment (a ladder that is tall enough and the second pair of hands) clean out the eavestrough and downspouts of all those last-minute leaves and debris from last fall. Consider cleaning the tracks and exterior mechanisms on windows and doors for smoother operation, lubricating if appropriate (see manufacturers specifications if available).

Your home, like mine, is probably your biggest asset. By staying on top of yearly maintenance we can prevent potential problems before they occur. Please remember Safety should always come first and please know your physical limits when in doubt hire a professional.

Chris McArthur
Ps. I am so glad winter is over!

Spring is almost upon us, we hope…That means as the snow and ice melt and the speed at which it does melt can mean potential excess water around our homes. I have spent 15 years keeping water out of the bottom half of people’s homes and it is true, that if you have an issue it should be resolved by a professional, but here are five ways to limit the amount of water from pooling around your house and limit the (gasp) penetrating of water through the foundation.

1. Help divert roof water away from your foundation by monitoring and clearing the end of your downspout of snow and ice.
2. Clear a path for roof water to flow freely away from the foundation to an appropriate location.
3. Try and clear as much snow and ice off horizontal surfaces that are near or attached to your foundation, such as decks, steps and raised gardens to prevent water from going OVER your foundation.
4. Clear out window wells of snow. Basement windows below grade are often a weak spot for water penetration.
5. If you have a sump pump, do a manual test (even if there is no water) to make sure it works and inspect the discharge terminus for blockage.

Diversion of water away from the foundation is the first step towards keeping water out of your basement. Though diversion won’t stop everything it’s a good start. Another time we will look at solutions for foundation problems.

However, if you are about the yard with the improved weather, why not inspect the outside of the structure for any new damage or wear and tear that may have occurred over the winter, that gives you the MOST amount of time for you to schedule any required before next winter and reduce “surprises”.

Enjoy your spring planting.

Chris McArthur

You don’t think that you are very handy. No problem, there is always a first time. Our houses are always in need of something…why not do some of the things which aren’t too expensive or “tool heavy” and leave the complicated things to other specific professionals.

Here are five minor potential issues with ongoing monitoring and maintenance can prolong the life expectancy of your home and save you money.

1. Downspout Extensions. Most downspouts at ground level, do not terminate far enough from the foundation. They should be directing water to at least 6-7 feet away from the building to eliminate potential pooling of water along the foundation. By adding an extension or changing the “terminus” of the downspout to further use the natural slope of the land you can help prevent water from potentially entering your home.
2. Caulking. It is used both inside and outside your home and DOES have an expected life expectancy. Take a little time and walk around your house and see if it is cracked, separated or deteriorated, and if you are up for it, try to remove the old caulking till you get a good substrate and redo it. If you are not up for it, call in a handyman and let him know ALL the locations which need re-energization.
3. Furnace filter. You would be surprised at how infrequently these are changed. It just doesn’t show up on our radar. Change your disposable filter every three months or change to a re-useable one and wash it. Better airflow means your furnace doesn’t have to work as hard and will last longer.
4. Water Hammer. When you shut off taps or the shower, do you get noise from behind the walls? There are built-in locations within the water supply which “soften” sudden shutting off of water flow, they are air pockets which over time get diminished and it is a good idea to recharge them once a year (maybe more if you have teenagers). Turn off the main water supply and at the Hot Water tank, drain all of the water lines in the house, both hot and cold, and then reverse the process. This will improve and help protect your water supply lines.
5. Drain Hot Water Tank. Most water supplies in Eastern Ontario, either public or private, are fairly “clean” of debris, but some debris always makes its way into the system. This is important in the hot water tank as most of this debris is metal (product of the supply lines). Some accumulate in the bottom of your hot water tank. We then expend energy heating it up over and over as we heat our water. If you drain the equivalent of 1 bucket out of the bottom of your hot water tank every six months, not only will you save on energy, but prolong the life expectancy of your tank!

If you have any questions do not hesitate to call!

Chris McArthur

Most real estate transactions now involve a home inspector. The inspector’s job is to find defects or issues with a house that can affect the value of a property for either the buyer or the seller.

Most people believe that it is always the potentially large cost items, such as a new roof or furnace, that can cause impediments to the sale of a house, but sometimes it is the number of smaller solvable defects that can make the difference. Here is a list of common smaller cost defects that can generally be dealt with, either by the homeowner or by a professional, before you put your house on the market and therefore shorten the list of items found by a home inspector.

1. GFCI. A ground fault circuit interrupter should be installed on all electrical receptacles within one meter of a water source, such as sink or tub, as a safety measure against potential electrocution. Sometimes this is difficult if retrofitting an existing home. Consult a certified electrician for installation.
2. Foundation cracks. Foundation cracks can be structural in nature if they are larger then 1/4″, but are mostly smaller and are simply potential entry points for water penetration through the foundation. They are commonly found on the corner of basement windows, corners or in changes in height of the foundation. Though not all cracks leak, they all have the potential to. Consult a waterproofing contractor or engineer for options depending on the size of the crack.
3. Downspout Extensions. Downspouts are generally inadequately extended away from the foundation. It is recommended that water coming from the roof discharge a minimum of 6-7 feet away from the foundation. This keeps the water from pooling against the foundation and finding any weak spots such as cracks or windows and helps to extend the life expectancy of your weeping tiles.
4. Tripping hazards. Everyone gets used to “their” home and are aware of tripping hazards that may exist, but new owners or visitors are not and they should be addressed if possible. Tripping hazards such as flooring transitions or lack thereof, uneven interlock or stairs and driveways can all have hazards that can be addressed by either the homeowner or a professional contractor.
5. Caulking interior. Water. It can find away. By re-caulking the tub, sink, shower or toilet you will not only eliminate potential leak sources, but you will also find any larger issues as you are going over these areas (such as leaking toilet or damaged tile work) which can then be addressed as necessary.
6. Caulking Exterior. For the same reasons as in interior caulking, water will find a way, at the very least an inspection and recommended re-caulking as required around doors, windows and transitions between veneer materials (ie. siding to brick). Please do not attempt to do any work on your roof, leave it to a professional.
7. Attic hatch. Most attic hatches are inadequately sealed or insulated. In essence, you have the equivalent of a large hole in the roof insulation…. By improving the weather stripping around the hatch entryway and improving the insulation on the backside to R20-40 if possible, you improve the overall energy efficiency of your home.
8. Carbon Monoxide Detectors Carbon Monoxide detectors should be installed for safety reasons at the very least next to any sleeping areas of the home, as we are the most vulnerable to the effects of carbon monoxide while sleeping. However, there is no reason not to put one on every floor, especially next to any fuel-burning appliance, such as a fireplace or furnace. Legislation in Ontario is changing, keep yourself informed.
9. Sump Pumps. Not everyone has one, but if you do it is very important. Things to consider are the discharge line, battery backups, ball valves, extra “switches” etc…. which may need to be verified or checked as well as every sump hole should have a lid of some description for safety purposes. For further evaluation talk to a waterproofing contractor or plumber (or me.).
10. Slope/Drainage. Not all houses have the perfect elevation or have neighbours that do either. It is important to have a positive slope of your property away from the house, this means sometimes adding soil close to the foundation (but never so the elevation is within 6″ of the top of the foundation) or raising an interlock patio that has sunk. This will help either groundwater or roof water from pooling against the foundation and help keep water out of the basement and prolong the life expectancy of your weeping tile. Other things to consider are raised flower beds, do they have adequate drainage? Often they hold moisture in and can cause damage to parging or even the foundation itself. For further information contact a waterproofing contractor or landscaper.

These repairs (or fixes) maybe within some people’s ability but not everyone’s. When in doubt, do not hesitate to contact professionals and always get three quotes!!!

If you need clarification on any of these items do not hesitate to contact me. I welcome questions.

Chris McArthur